Jeotgal: Korean fermented seafood

Jeotgal is made by packing seafood such as shrimp, anchovies, clams, fish roe or innards with plenty of salt and letting it ferment for a long time. As it ages, the seafood breaks down and develops deep savory flavor alongside the saltiness. The amount of salt, the aging time and the seasoning all change the final taste.

Saeujeot is tiny shrimp fermented in salt, one of the most widely used jeotgal in Korea. It goes into kimchi seasoning, steamed eggs and stews to add salt and depth, and it is served as a dip with boiled pork, sundae and gukbap. People with a shellfish or crustacean allergy should be careful.

These names describe saeujeot by when the shrimp were caught. Ojeot is made from shrimp caught around May, yukjeot from around June, and chujeot from shrimp caught in autumn. Yukjeot is especially prized for kimchi-making because the shrimp are larger and plumper.

Aekjeot is a clear liquid strained after fish, most often anchovies or sand lance, ferments for a long time in salt, though other seafood is used too. Unlike chunky jeotgal, it is a liquid, so it is easy to use for seasoning kimchi, soups and namul. Anchovy and sand lance fish sauce are common, and they differ slightly in flavor and aroma.

Myeongnanjeot is pollock roe cured in salt and often seasoned with chili flakes before aging. It is salty and intensely savory, eaten with rice or added to rolled omelets, pasta and rice balls. Japan's mentaiko is widely said to have originated from Korean myeongnanjeot.

Changnanjeot is made from pollock intestines and has a pleasantly chewy texture, while ojingeojeot is thinly sliced squid that has been salted and seasoned. Both are usually mixed with chili flakes and garlic for a spicy kick and eaten with rice. They are quite salty, so try a little at first.

Eoriguljeot is oysters lightly salted and then mixed with chili seasoning to ferment. The name is often explained as meaning it is made less salty than other jeotgal, and it is well known as a specialty of the Seosan area in South Chungcheong Province. Because the oysters are raw, consider your health and how it has been stored.

Most kimchi contains salted seafood, but the type and amount vary by region and household. Generally, southern regions use more and stronger jeotgal such as fermented anchovy, while northern styles use less, often salted shrimp, for a cleaner taste. Vegan kimchi and temple-style kimchi made without seafood also exist.

Salted seafood is often hidden in kimchi, seasoned side dishes and stew bases, so extra care is needed. Salted shrimp is a crustacean product, which means someone with a shrimp allergy may react to kimchi or gukbap seasoning. Tell restaurant staff about your allergy and check allergen labels on packaged foods.

Ganggyeong in Nonsan, Gwangcheon in Hongseong and Gomso in Buan are well known as jeotgal centers. These towns have streets or markets lined with salted seafood shops, and some hold annual jeotgal events. Schedules and details can change each year, so check the local government's official information.

Togul saeujeot is salted shrimp aged inside caves dug into hillsides. The cool conditions inside the caves are said to suit slow fermentation. The cave-aged salted shrimp of Gwangcheon in Hongseong is particularly famous. Shops selling cave-aged salted shrimp are clustered in the town, and many visitors buy it ahead of the kimchi-making season.

Keep jeotgal tightly sealed in the refrigerator. Lower-salt versions can spoil faster than traditional ones. Always use a clean, dry spoon when taking some out. For packaged products, following the storage instructions and expiration date on the label is the safest approach.

On international flights, wet foods like jeotgal can fall under the liquids rules for carry-on bags, so checking them in is the safer choice. Seal the container well and double-wrap it so it cannot leak. Some countries restrict seafood imports, so also check the rules of your destination.

The salty, savory shrimp seasons the mild boiled pork and balances its richness, so the two have long been eaten together. That is why salted shrimp often comes with suyuk, bossam, sundae and pork gukbap. Even a tiny bit is quite salty, so dip lightly.

Galchi-sokjeot is made from the innards of hairtail fish fermented in salt, and it is strong and quite salty. It is known as a specialty of the Jeolla region, where people put a little on lettuce wraps like a dipping paste or season it as a side dish. Its aroma is intense, so start with just a taste.

To some extent, yes. Both are made by fermenting fish with salt, so they play a similar role in a dish. The fish used and the aging process differ, however, so saltiness and aroma are not identical. If you substitute, add a little at a time and taste as you go.

Many people start with seasoned types that taste more familiar, such as pollock roe or squid jeotgal. A small amount on warm white rice softens the saltiness. Stronger varieties are easier to try in small amounts with lettuce wraps or boiled pork.

Salted seafood has been a preserved food in Korea for a very long time. The Samguk Sagi records wedding gifts sent by King Sinmun of Silla in 683, and one item on the list is interpreted as jeotgal. Surrounded by sea on three sides, Koreans developed it as a way to keep seafood for long periods.

Jeotgal is high in sodium because of the salt, so it is best eaten in small amounts alongside other food. Lower-salt products are available, but they need more careful storage. If you have high blood pressure or another condition that requires a special diet, talk to your doctor.

A jeotgal jeongsik is a set meal where several kinds of salted seafood are served as side dishes with rice. It is found at restaurants around jeotgal-producing towns and lets you sample small portions of salted shrimp, pollock roe, octopus, oyster and more. What is included varies by restaurant, so check the menu.