Royal cuisine and hanjeongsik

Royal court cuisine is the food prepared for kings and the royal family during the Joseon Dynasty, made by skilled cooks with the best ingredients sent from across the country. Joseon royal court cuisine has been designated a national intangible heritage, and its techniques are still passed down. It is known for valuing harmony, balance and clean flavors over flashiness.

Surasang was the king's everyday meal setting in the Joseon era, known as a 12-dish table (12-cheop bansang) with rice, soup, stew, kimchi and sauces plus many side dishes. It is said to have been served across several tables at once. Today, some hanjeongsik restaurants and royal cuisine programs present recreations of it.

Hanjeongsik is a full Korean meal centered on rice and soup, with many side dishes and main dishes served all at once on a crowded table or as a course. Since you can sample pancakes, braised dishes, grilled items, seasoned vegetables and salted seafood in one sitting, it is popular with first-time visitors to Korea. The menu and atmosphere vary widely by restaurant.

Course-style hanjeongsik usually starts with something light like porridge or salad, followed by dishes such as pancakes, raw fish, braised meat and grilled items, and ends with rice, soup, side dishes and dessert. Many restaurants still serve everything on one table at once instead. Portions add up, so pace yourself during the early courses.

Sinseollo is a royal dish cooked in a distinctive pot with a central chimney for hot charcoal. Meat, fish pancakes, vegetables, mushrooms and egg strips are arranged around it and simmered in broth. Its colorful presentation makes it a symbol of banquets and royal cuisine. It is uncommon in ordinary restaurants but can be found at royal cuisine specialists.

Gujeolpan is served in a platter with nine sections: the outer eight hold fillings like meat, vegetables, mushrooms and egg strips, and the center holds thin wheat crepes. You place a little of each filling on a crepe, wrap it up and eat it. The dish shows how royal cuisine values harmony of color.

Gungjung (royal court) tteokbokki is seasoned with soy sauce instead of gochujang and stir-fried with beef, mushrooms and vegetables, so it is not spicy. Soy-seasoned rice cake dishes appear in records earlier than the red, spicy version, though old cookbooks sometimes called them by other names, such as tteokjjim. It is a great choice for travelers who cannot handle chili.

Tangpyeongchae is mung bean jelly tossed with beef, water parsley, mung bean sprouts and seaweed. A popular story says it was named after King Yeongjo's tangpyeong policy, which aimed to reconcile rival political factions, because it was served when the policy was discussed. The mix of colorful ingredients is said to symbolize harmony.

Many upscale hanjeongsik restaurants work by reservation or require at least two diners. Courses often come in several tiers, so you usually choose the course and party size when booking. Lunch sets are a more casual way to try it, so check them along with opening hours.

Seoul has institutions such as the Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine, which carries on the lineage of designated royal cuisine masters and is known to offer classes and experience programs. Some cooking schools also run short sessions for foreigners. Check each institution's official information for schedules and language options.

"Cheop" refers to the number of side dishes served in lidded bowls, not counting basics like rice, soup, kimchi and sauces. Traditional table settings were classified as 3, 5, 7, 9 or 12 cheop, with 12 associated with the king's table. Today, restaurants still use the term to indicate how elaborate a meal is.

At restaurants serving everything on one table, you can sometimes ask for more of the basic side dishes, but course dishes and special items usually are not refilled. The more upscale the restaurant, the more likely the meal follows a fixed composition. If you want more of something, ask the staff politely.

The TV drama "Dae Jang Geum," about a cook in the Joseon royal kitchen, aired in many countries and is credited with sparking wide interest in royal cuisine. Since then, more foreign travelers are said to seek out royal cuisine experiences and hanjeongsik. Keep in mind that not every dish in the drama reflects historical fact.

Royal cuisine is known for gentle, refined flavors built mostly on soy sauce rather than strong spice or saltiness. It aims to preserve the natural taste of ingredients and values harmony of color and shape. It may feel quite different from modern Korean food, which uses a lot of chili.

Baekban is an everyday home-style meal of rice, soup and a few side dishes, while hanjeongsik is a more formal feast with many more dishes. Baekban is easy to order for one and is served at many casual, affordable restaurants. Hanjeongsik is often chosen for hosting guests or special occasions.

Hanjeongsik often ends with sujeonggwa, a cinnamon and ginger punch, or sikhye, a sweet rice drink, along with seasonal fruit, rice cakes or traditional confections. The chilled drinks refresh your palate after the meal. Dessert offerings vary by restaurant. Traditional teahouses may serve them with a small rice cake or cookie.

Yakgwa is a traditional cookie made from wheat flour, honey and sesame oil, deep-fried and soaked in syrup or honey. Dasik is pressed into patterned molds from grain powder or pine pollen mixed with honey. Both were served at royal and aristocratic feasts and ancestral rites. Yakgwa has recently become a trendy dessert among younger Koreans too.

Gyeongbokgung Palace has run royal cuisine experience programs in the restored Sojubang, the former royal kitchen, and related events are sometimes held during palace festivals. These programs run for limited periods and often require advance booking. Check the Korea Heritage Service or the palace's official website for current schedules.

Strict dress codes are rare, but neat clothing suits upscale hanjeongsik restaurants. Rooms with floor seating require you to take off your shoes, so clean socks are a good idea. When dining with elders, it is polite to wait until they pick up their spoon before you start.

Try each side dish a little at a time and eat them with rice to enjoy the balance of salty and mild flavors. Transfer shared dishes to your own plate, and share rather than repeatedly taking one favorite. If you do not recognize a dish, ask staff for its name and ingredients; many are happy to explain.