Traditional Korean textiles

The four classic Korean fabrics are myeongju (silk), mosi (ramie), sambe (hemp) and mumyeong (cotton). Silk comes from silkworm cocoons, ramie and hemp from plant stem fibers, and cotton from the cotton plant. People chose among them by season, purpose and social status when making clothes.

Mosi is ramie cloth, woven from fibers taken from the stem bark of the ramie plant. It is light and breathable, so it was a favorite for summer clothing. Fine mosi has a soft sheen, and when starched it stays crisp and stands away from the skin, which keeps the wearer cool.

Hansan mosi is ramie cloth from the Hansan area of Seocheon County, South Chungcheong Province, known for its especially fine threads. Hansan mosi weaving is a National Intangible Cultural Heritage of Korea and was inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2011. The region also holds ramie-themed festivals and exhibitions.

Sambe is cloth woven from hemp stem fibers. It is strong and breathable, so it was long used for summer clothes and everyday household goods. It has a slightly rough texture and a natural, earthy color. In traditional funeral rites, hemp cloth was also used for mourning clothes and burial garments.

Andongpo is hemp cloth woven in the Andong area of North Gyeongsang Province, valued for its even weave and quality. Korea's National Intangible Cultural Heritage of hemp weaving centers on the Andong tradition, with a village preservation association recognized as the holding group. Local facilities sometimes introduce the weaving process to visitors.

Myeongju is silk woven from thread reeled from silkworm cocoons. It is soft, light and warm, with a gentle sheen, so it was used for formal wear, precious garments and spring or autumn clothes. It is still used for fine hanbok today, and because washing it at home is tricky, many people send it to professional cleaners.

Cotton cloth, called mumyeong, spread after Mun Ik-jeom brought cotton seeds back from Yuan China in the late Goryeo period and cultivation took hold. His mission to Yuan is recorded as beginning in 1363. Warm and durable, cotton cloth became the main fabric for ordinary people during the Joseon era.

Naju Saetgollai refers to the traditional cotton weaving craft of the Naju area in South Jeolla Province. It preserves the process of spinning thread from cotton and weaving cloth on a loom, and it was designated a National Intangible Cultural Heritage, then called an Important Intangible Cultural Property, in 1969. Hand-woven cotton has a plain, gentle texture.

Gokseong Dolsillai is the name for the hemp weaving tradition of the Seokgok area in Gokseong, South Jeolla Province. It was designated a national intangible heritage in 1970 and has since been merged into Korea's national hemp weaving heritage as one of its sub-traditions. It is a good example of a traditional cloth known by its place name.

Hanbok silks are named by how they are woven. Gapsa is thin and sheer, suited to summer; suk-gosa has subtle woven patterns for spring and autumn; and yangdan is a heavy, richly patterned brocade used for winter formal wear. Many fabrics today imitate these looks with synthetic fibers, so check the fiber label.

In summer people wore breathable ramie, hemp and thin silks. In spring and autumn they chose myeongju silk or patterned silks, and in winter they kept warm with garments padded with cotton wadding or quilted. The same seasonal logic is still a helpful guide when choosing hanbok fabric today.

Nubi is a technique of placing cotton wadding between an outer and inner fabric and stitching through all layers in close, even rows. The stitching keeps the padding in place and adds warmth, so it was used for winter clothes, baby clothes and bedding. Traditional nubi is passed down as the National Intangible Cultural Heritage of nubijang, or quilting craft.

Traditional dyes came from natural materials such as plants and minerals. Indigo plants gave blue, safflower gave red and gardenia gave yellow, for example. This natural dyeing craft is preserved as the National Intangible Cultural Heritage of yeomsaekjang, or dyeing, and some workshops still offer hands-on dyeing sessions.

Gilssam is the Korean word for the whole process of making thread and weaving cloth on a loom. In the past it was important household work done mostly by women, and neighbors often gathered to work together. Many regions still pass down work songs and customs connected to gilssam.

A beteul is the traditional Korean loom, worked with both hands and feet. The warp threads are set up on the frame, the weaver uses foot treadles to open the warp, and a shuttle carries the weft across, one row at a time. Some museums and craft halls display real looms or offer weaving demonstrations.

Traditionally, ramie garments were washed, starched and ironed so they would stay crisp. The fiber wrinkles easily, so care takes some effort. Modern ramie clothes are finished in different ways, so read the care label first, and for valuable pieces a professional cleaner is the safest choice.

Regions known for weaving have halls that introduce their traditional cloth. Seocheon has a facility dedicated to Hansan ramie, and areas known for hemp cloth may also have related exhibits. Museums of everyday life sometimes show old fabrics and tools as well. Check official websites for visiting information.

Yes. Ramie, hemp and silk still appear not only in hanbok but also in contemporary clothing and accessories. Some designers use their textures in shirts and dresses, and they are common in modern everyday hanbok. These fabrics need more care than most, so it helps to learn how to look after them first.

Start with the fiber content on the product label. Something sold as ramie or hemp may be blended with other fibers or may be a synthetic with a similar look. Also check the country of origin and care instructions, and ask the seller directly if anything is unclear.

Chimseonjang is the craft of making traditional clothing with needle and thread, and the title for artisans who master it. It preserves traditional methods of cutting fabric and hand-sewing hanbok and ceremonial garments. Chimseonjang is a National Intangible Cultural Heritage of Korea, sometimes introduced through exhibitions and public demonstrations.