Cica, houttuynia and other botanicals

Cica refers to ingredients from Centella asiatica, a plant known in Korean as byeongpul, and it became one of K-beauty's signature soothing ingredients. On ingredient lists it may appear as Centella Asiatica Extract or as compounds such as madecassoside. People often reach for it when skin feels sensitive or dry.

Both are key compounds found in centella. When a brand adds a specific isolated compound rather than a general extract, it appears on the label under these names. They are used in cosmetics to help soothe and hydrate the skin. Concentrations and formulas vary by product, so texture and results can differ too.

Many people use cica creams to calm and moisturize skin that feels dry and reactive, for example during seasonal changes. They are cosmetics, though, not treatments for wounds, burns or dermatitis. If you have oozing, strong redness or pain, see a dermatologist rather than relying on a cream.

Eoseongcho is Houttuynia cordata, a plant with a fishy-smelling leaf, and its Korean name reflects that scent. In English-language K-beauty marketing it is often called heartleaf. Houttuynia extract is popular in soothing and blemish-care products, especially toners and toner pads.

Houttuynia is common in calming products for breakout-prone skin, but as a cosmetic ingredient it cannot be said to treat acne. Think of it as a supporting step that helps skin feel comfortable. If inflamed acne is severe or long-lasting, see a dermatologist for proper diagnosis and care.

Mugwort has a long history in Korean food and everyday life, and in skincare it became popular as a soothing, hydrating ingredient. On labels you may see it as Artemisia extract or mugwort leaf water. It belongs to the daisy family, so anyone allergic to those plants should patch test first.

Green tea extract contains antioxidant compounds and is widely used to help keep skin in good condition. Some Korean brands highlight green tea grown on Jeju Island as a signature ingredient. It appears in toners, creams and cleansers, and it is generally considered a gentle ingredient for most skin types.

Tea tree oil is common in products for breakout-prone skin, but the undiluted oil can be harsh, so avoid putting it straight on your face. Use finished products where it is already diluted, and stop if your skin stings or reddens. Oxidized tea tree oil can trigger allergies, so store opened bottles carefully.

Aloe's cool, watery texture makes it a staple in soothing gels. Many people use it on skin that feels warm after sun exposure, but burns with blisters or pain need medical care. Applying a raw leaf directly can irritate some people, so a finished product is usually the safer choice.

Licorice root extract is a botanical used in cosmetics to calm skin and help it look more even. You may find it in toners and serums that focus on a clear complexion. In Korea, a product must go through the functional cosmetics process to claim brightening, so check what the label actually says.

Camellia oil is pressed from camellia seeds and used to soften both skin and hair. It is said to have been used traditionally as a hair oil in Korea, and some products feature camellias from Jeju and other southern regions. When using it on your face, start with a small amount to see how it feels.

Rice bran, rice extract and fermented rice ingredients are often used in Korean cosmetics to soften skin and support a clear-looking complexion. Interest grew partly from the familiar habit of washing the face with rice water. Homemade rice water spoils easily, though, so hygiene matters if you try it.

Both are popular in soothing products, but they come from different plants: cica from centella and houttuynia from Houttuynia cordata, each with its own compounds. Cica is often marketed for dry, reactive skin and houttuynia for fresh, blemish-focused care. In practice, judge each product by its overall formula.

Yes. Plant ingredients can cause allergies or irritation just like any other ingredient. Plants in the daisy family, citrus and essential oils are among those that bother some people. Test new products on your inner arm or behind your ear first, stop if redness or itching appears, and see a doctor if needed.

Essential oils add scent and a pleasant feel, but they are concentrated sources of fragrance compounds and can irritate sensitive skin. In Korea, listed allergenic fragrance components must be named separately when they exceed a set concentration. If your skin is reactive, consider products with little or no essential oil.

Calendula comes from the pot marigold flower and is used in toners and creams to soothe and soften skin. It often appears in products for sensitive skin, but because it belongs to the daisy family, people allergic to those plants should be careful. Try it on a small patch of skin first.

Purslane is a common wild plant in Korea, and its extract is often used in soothing skincare. It appears on ingredient lists as Portulaca Oleracea Extract (쇠비름추출물). It is generally considered mild, but skin reactions vary from person to person, so test a new product before applying it all over.

Fermented ingredients are plant or grain materials fermented with yeast or bacteria, and they are common in K-beauty essences. Brands say fermentation changes the ingredients and the way products feel, but results vary by product and person. If you are sensitive to yeast-derived ingredients, check the list carefully.

Centella is sometimes called tiger grass in English, a name often explained by a folk story about wounded tigers rolling in the plant. That is a legend, not scientific evidence. When choosing products, rely on the ingredient list and your own skin's response rather than the story behind the name.

Products rich in plant ingredients can gradually change color or scent when exposed to light, heat or air. If a product smells unusual, separates or shows any sign of mold, stop using it. Store such products in a cool place away from direct sunlight, and follow the period-after-opening guidance on the package.